Showing posts with label Bouldering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bouldering. Show all posts

14 April, 2012

Rock Star

Its not often that you get the chance to have your photo taken with a real 'Rock Star' - This little Frenchman was very happy to meet the real 'Gaz Parry'!

JP Bouvier and Gaz Parry at Rocher Canon
Gaz was having a rest day today so I thought it would be good to work on easy blocs that actually aren't. Another frenchman with 40yrs experience took me under his wing when he saw me struggling on a red. He told me its all about technique and these new 'Rock Stars' are all about the compression. After having my feet literally moved to the right holds and my arse spotted closely I decided to whip my top off, pull out the guns and flash one. He said I was a star pupil!

13 April, 2012

My best life so far.... Living in Fontainebleau

Well I have no idea what day it is and have had no idea of time at all over the past few days, all I know is that we seem to have done alot! I have always had a strange little concept that we don't live one life, we live many lives throughout our lifetime and that we aren't the same person we started out as. Sounds a bit strange but anyway, the past couple of weeks may just have been my best life so far, which is saying alot seen as so many things seem to have gone wrong! So here is a photo blog of the past few days since my last post...

Ponies and our little hire car outside our new home - 'La Maison Lapin'

We're currently living in an ex rabbit hut on the field we found to rent in Larchant. The horses are loving it and Arco is haviong lots of fun just randomly galloping around the field (hence also laying down alot to rest his baby legs!) They're both loving cantering round the forest on rides too!

Ted and Gaz in 'La Maison Lapin'
We're now fully back online with Orange 'Lets Go Pass' PAYG internet, just buy a sim for 8 euros with 100mb and then we topped up 25 euros for 1 month/ 2GB. So we're all sorted in our little hut with double bed for us (Metolious mat), single bed for the dogs (DMM mat), kitchen area and office!

'We love Mountains' and Boulders!
After their great hospitality last week, 'We Love Mountains' paid us a visit in Larchant. We'd love a van like this! We Love VW's!

Gaz the Happy Europcar Driver
Since our horsebox broke down we have been running around in a little hire car courtesy of our Asda European Breakdown cover. (The garage here quoted just under 2k to repair a burnt out clutch and starter motor so the van is going to be repatriated to the UK next week to be repaired at MOT Dover for 820!) Unforunately the little car decided to go a bit haywire, randomly not starting 'Anomalie Electronique' and the lights and windscreen wipers going on and off of their own accord. So we spent a whole afternoon in Europcar Nemours before having to drive to Melun to pick up the smallest hire car in the world! Suprisingly the diddy Renault Twingo can fit 2 people, 2 giant dogs, a giant Metolious mat, a DMM mat and our bag of climbing gear in it, all without having to take the seats out!

Weather in Fontainebleau
The weather has been pretty perfect the whole time we've been here. We've had the odd shower and one day we got hit by a hailstorm at Bas Cuvier but it didn't last long and this beautiful rainbow came out within 10mins. Conditions on the rock are brill with near perfect friction without it being too cold.

Kate on random 7a+ at Drei Zinnen
After living in Spain for 3yrs doing no bouldering whatsover I told Gaz that I'd be psyched to do a 7a while we're in Font. That very day I did a 7a+ at Canche aux Merciers within a couple of goes only for Gaz to downgrade it to 6c+ even though it took him about 10 goes (no exageration!). So today I did a 7a at Buthiers which felt much harder that Gaz thought was easy 7a but easier than the 7a+ (/6c+) that I did the other day. I hope you're less confused by that than me!

Gaz watching 'Hotline' beta on Vimeo
With our new 'Orange' technology we can now even watch beta on Vimeo while at the crag!

Gaz trying 'Hotline' at Petit Reine
Gaz has been trying a few hard classics while we've been here - Surplomb de la Mee, Hotline and Partage. As with me he hasn't bouldered properly for 3yrs so he's just enjoying flashing some easier problems at the mo and working the moves on the harder blocs. Hopefully he'll be able to give something hard a good go before we have to leave.

06 April, 2012

Bouldering in Fontainebleau

Yesterday I went out for a full days bouldering with the Positive Climbing gang to Franchard Isatis. Once again it was tons of fun and all the girls enjoyed climbing a whole bunch of reds which they were very proud of. They even admitted that they weren't sure they would enjoy bouldering but they all love it now! Even Ted joined in the fun...

Ted the Dog Bouldering in Fontainebleau from Epic-Adventures on Vimeo.
Here is Ted, our very cool dog, bouldering at Franchard Isatis in Fontainebleu! Gaz is spotting him.

I found a problem which I liked alot but couldn't do the top move. Soon after I realised how achey I was and was happy to settle for only half a days climbing. I'm aching even more today!

Kate Mills on 6c+ at Franchard Isatis, Fontainebleau from Epic-Adventures on Vimeo.
Annoyingly with my current strength I don't seem to be able to reach the rail at the top. Any suggestions?

After climbing we went to see a field in Larchant which we are going to rent until we get the horsebox repaired. It has a ramshackle feed room, 2 ramshackle stables and a well and the lady says we can camp until we have the van. I'm very excited!

Our new family home as of Saturday

04 April, 2012

A Classic Fontainebleau Problem...

Today was a day of major highs and lows. We had a steady start and then went out bouldering to Vallee de la Mee - Potala to do an easy blue circuit. In usual Kate style a got bored of getting scared on high easy problems quite quickly and decided to move onto selected red problems. I was pleased to flash a cool little roof and found a really nice slopey 6c+ traverse to try with Cornellia.

I did well on it first go but hadn't looked at the end because I didn't expect to get there so fell off after getting a bit confused. I did the end using a very scarey full on foot jam that really doesn't come out! I had a couple more goes until I realised that I just needed a big rest before giving it a proper go.

I waited for Gaz to get back so he could give me a proper spot so I wouldn't break my leg in the crack and then I got a phone call about the van.... 2k!!!!! Well I had a little rant and then got on with giving my problem a go. Things once again didn't go to plan! Here is a little vid that you might find amusing...

Its Not a Jug! - A Fontainebleau Classic from Epic-Adventures on Vimeo.

Just so you know, the reason I randomly let go is because I wasn't on a jug and the next move involved putting a foot jam in the crack that doesn't come out while holding a not so nice slippy, slopey hold.

I think I'll give it another shot another day seen as we may be stranded in Font now that we seem to be vanless!

Gaz and Ted enjoying Font. Ted a little too much which is why the poff rag is strategically placed!

On a more positive note, we went on a 20km ride with the ponies in 2 hrs across some wonderful farm tracks and through sections of forest following one of the endurance trails. I love Fontainebleau and we're even going to see a piece of land for rent in Larchant tomorrow!